Chegada em Chaiten e Carretera Austral ate La Junta

Claudia:
14 de marzo de 2011

Um pouco de dor de cabeca e uma tonteirinha sao reminescencias de uma noite mal dormida no Ferry Naviera Austral. Resolvi nao pegar cabine e dormir em cadeira e foi no que deu. Nao dormi nada com a barulheira dos outros e o desconforto. Mas fora isso a viagem sucedeu a maravilhas. Saimos de Puerto Montt a meia noite e chegamos a Chaiten as oito da manha. Estava chuviscando e o ceu encoberto, mas dava para avistar as lindas montanhas de Chaiten e seu majestoso Vulcao. Resolvemos sair de Chaiten e ja ir viajando. Nossa primeira parada foi para o café da manha no Parque Pumallin. UaUUUU!!! Ja a entrada do Parque se avista um Glaciar e montanhas nevadas. O Parque esta muito bem cuidado e ate com grama cortada. Tem lugares deliciosos para pique-nique, camping e caminhadas. Tomamos nosso café e viemos ate La Junta. Vamos passar a noite aquí em uma cabana. Antes de chegar a La Junta pedi aos ¨Senhores do Universo¨ que gostaria de encontrar uma cabana boa, bonita e barata. Queria no preco de uns 16 mil, mas minha intuicao disse vinte mil eu encontraria. E dito e feito, a primeira que paramos o simpatissisimo senhor pediu 25 e fez no final por vinte mil pesos. Eu trouxe matula de casa, frango com arroz e verduras, uma verdadeira farofada. Me senti bem saindo da rotina, parando para pique-nique e comendo ao ar livre.

Parque Pumallin

Gerry:

Tuesday, 15 March
We are now well into our travels already but couldn’t actually write
yesterday as we were about to get off the ferry. This had taken us
overnight to land in Chaiten in the morning, having arrived aboard the
previous evening about 9 pm. Then we had the long wait until midnight
when the ferry left and before the lights were dimmed. We were in the
large seating area with seats that could tilt back but it was difficult
to sleep there easily even though the lights were dimmed. The chairs got
awfully uncomfortable after a few hours and then people near us had to
start some inane chatter, especially the fellow who must needs talk into
my left ear to the ladies behind. Not the most restful of nights and
very similar to the awful overnight flights. Still, it was quick and we
were off the ferry by 9, feeling sleepy but excited to be heading south.

The town of Chaiten appeared to have been improved after the Govt
relented and brought back services and no further eruptions of the
nearby volcano had taken place. We didn’t linger there but drove out
awaiting some convenient spot to breakfast. Eventually came to a very
well-kept park – I think privately owned - which had this huge glacier
on the mountains beyond. We hadn’t noticed this on our previous drive
north a year ago, presumably because it was raining and cloudy. Now,
although a slight drizzle, the clouds were higher but really not good
enough for spectacular pictures. In the park we found a nice grassy,
lawn-type area to make a gorgeous place to have our breakfast. Lots of
various fruits we had brought as well as muesli and tea.

Drove further up this neat park past several beautiful camping areas
but, at this stage, no campers and we too would have no desire to pull
out a tent. Although we have brought our camping equipment with us
neither relish the thought of huddling in a wet tent. At the end I took
a short walk into the forest but, although very luscious around, no time
to reach the area of the glacier and anyway by then the drizzle was
increasing and clouds coming down. We now took to the dirt roads going
south with again those huge spectacular mountains around with many a
high up glacier. Quite slow going with so much to see but uninviting
weather and we found ourselves very tired. Had intentions of going
further but by La Junta, after lunch, found a pleasant little cabana to
stay and rest during the afternoon. As always on the first day of the
trip, one has much to sort out and organise but I am happy to say our
vehicle isn’t badly arranged and I feel we are ready.

So pleasant to sit and read with a good fire burning in the cabana
though I must admit to find myself wanting desperately to fall asleep.
Started my beer earlier than usual – I had had nothing the night before
– and enjoyed my wines before a really early bedtime and before it got
dark. Had to re-light the fire this morning but, with the aid of the
faithful old pocket knife, managed to shave off bits of kindling and
success was had. Wild and wet country this and can’t imagine how Beryl
Smeeton fared when she rode on horses through this area in 1938, when it
was virtually road less!